Pomegranate smells like bright, slightly tart berries with a whisper of leather and dry spice. Imagine biting into the jewelled seeds—there's that sharp, almost mouth-puckering citrus sweetness, but deeper and more sophisticated than lemon or orange. It carries an unexpected earthy, almost woody undertone, like the pomegranate's skin itself. There's a subtle astringency that catches the back of your nose, reminiscent of red wine or fresh pomegranate juice left to oxidise. It's fruity without being cloying, with a complexity that feels both ancient and modern.
Pomegranate originates from the Levant and has been cultivated across the Mediterranean, North Africa, and Western Asia for millennia. The note used in perfumery is almost always synthetic; it's extraordinarily difficult to extract from the fruit itself due to the juice's delicate, volatile nature. Perfumers instead create pomegranate through molecule synthesis, using compounds like damascenone and other fruity aldehydes to approximate the fruit's tartness and subtle leather notes. The ingredient has gained significant popularity since the early 2000s, becoming a modern staple in contemporary fragrance design.
Pomegranate typically plays a sparkling top or heart note, adding a tart, slightly spicy brightness to compositions. It bridges fruity and woody territories beautifully, preventing pure fruit accords from becoming too saccharine. Perfumers often pair it with amber, woods, or florals for depth, using its natural astringency to create tension and intrigue.
Surprising harmonies
Calvin Klein
Versace
Bvlgari
Guerlain
L'Artisan Parfumeur
Parfum d'Empire
Versace
Jul et Mad
Shiseido / 資生堂
Santa Maria Novella
Versace
Bvlgari