Shiseido / 資生堂
Shiseido / 資生堂
160 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Fuji apple hits with genuine crispness—almost green, slightly tart—immediately anchored by violet's powdery coolness and pomegranate's subtle astringency. Within seconds you're aware this fragrance prioritises restraint; it feels almost imperceptible on the skin, requiring you to lean in rather than broadcasting outward.
Freesia emerges with a clean, slightly soapy transparency that prevents the florals from becoming heavy, whilst jasmine adds a soft, almost creamy undertone. Wisteria acts as a delicate structural element, blending seamlessly with the remaining fruit notes to create something almost faceted—like watching light refract through glass rather than experiencing bold colour.
Orbitone and sandalwood establish a pale, woody foundation with only the faintest sweetness remaining, whilst patchouli contributes a subtle earthiness rather than the darker, leather-adjacent character it often provides. By hour four, the fragrance has become a skin scent—recognisable only if someone leans close, leaving an impression of soft florality and pale wood rather than any distinct projection.
Ginza Shiseido Murasaki arrives as a deliberately restrained fragrance—almost apologetically so. Karine Dubreuil-Sereni has crafted something that whispers rather than announces, a composition that privileges delicate interplay over projection. The Fuji apple opens with a crisp, almost tart brightness, immediately tempered by violet's powdery restraint and pomegranate's tannin-like dryness. This isn't the cheerful fruit medley of mass-market fragrances; instead, the citric snap of apple plays against violet's faintly soapy, almost green character, creating an effect that's vaguely Japanese in its understatement—refined rather than effusive.
As it develops, the floral heart emerges with careful calibration. Freesia brings a clean, slightly aldehydic quality that prevents the composition from becoming cloying, whilst jasmine adds a whisper of indolic warmth without dominating. Wisteria, that curiously delicate note, seems almost structural here—more about creating a bridge between the fruit and florals than asserting itself independently. The synthetic accord (52%) becomes apparent as a gentle shimmer beneath the naturals, lending an almost glossy, almost cosmetic quality that recalls Shiseido's heritage as a beauty house.
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3.4/5 (281)