Prada
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
An almost aggressive hit of mandarin leaf—green, slightly bitter, reminiscent of cold tea and dawn hours—immediately establishes that this won't be a conventional sunny citrus. The actual mandarin fruit arrives moments later, stripped of juice and sweetness, lending only its dry, slightly astringent character to the composition.
The bitter orange and neroli assertions transform the fragrance into something considerably more sophisticated, introducing a subtle floral restraint that mirrors the structural grace of classical colognes. A delicate powdery undertone gradually emerges, creating a soft-focus quality where the individual notes blur into a cohesive, almost creamy whole that sits very close to the skin.
What remains is essentially a faint, powdery whisper—the musk base provides barely perceptible warmth and skin scent rather than substantive longevity, creating an intimacy that demands proximity rather than projection.
Infusion de Mandarine arrives as a love letter to citrus fruit rather than a fragrance built around citrus's typical brightness. Daniela Andrier has crafted something deliberately understated here—a fragrance that prioritises the green, almost herbaceous quality of mandarin leaf over the expected juicy sweetness of the fruit itself. This is mandarin stripped of its conventional cheerfulness, turned inward and contemplative.
The opening is arrestingly fresh, but it's the leaf note that commands attention, lending an almost tea-like quality that suggests sitting in a Mediterranean garden at dawn rather than peeling fruit at breakfast. As the composition settles, bitter orange and neroli emerge to complicate matters—these aren't the pretty florals of traditional eau de cologne, but rather their more austere cousins, adding an almost pharmaceutical crispness that prevents any cloying sweetness from taking hold.
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