Gatsby / ギャツビー
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Crisp bergamot and lemon cut through with an almost gaseous quality—the "fume" note—before lavender arrives to ground the brightness. Within minutes, you're aware this isn't a fresh cologne; something deeper is already emerging beneath the citrus.
Rose and geranium materialise with unexpected earthiness, whilst jasmine and ylang ylang add a faintly animalic undertone that feels intimate and slightly provocative. The composition broadens considerably here, with leather beginning to assert itself alongside a soft, almost dusty floral character that refuses to be pretty.
Leather becomes the primary statement, supported by oud's dark, resinous depth. Benzoin and labdanum create a warm, almost beeswax-like base whilst caraway and pink pepper maintain an insistent spice. The woody elements—sandalwood and cedarwood—lend a cool, almost pencil-shaving quality that persists until the final hours, when musk and vanilla emerge softly beneath everything else.
Gatsby Cool is a fragrance that wears its complexity with deliberate restraint—a contradiction that makes it fascinating. Roja Dove has constructed something that feels both austere and sensual, a leather-dominant composition that refuses to whisper. The opening briskness of bergamot and lemon gives way to a remarkably dense heart where geranium and rose don't soften the composition so much as add a papery, slightly tart dimension to what becomes progressively animalic. This is where the listed "foulness" note—likely a touch of indolic jasmine or civet—becomes apparent, lending an almost skin-like warmth that makes the floral elements feel less about beauty and more about presence.
The base is where Dove's ambition reveals itself fully. Leather and oud form a dark, almost architectural foundation, whilst benzoin and labdanum add a dusty sweetness that prevents the composition from becoming austere. Caraway and pink pepper add spice that feels peppery rather than warm, cutting through the base's heavier elements with unexpected sharpness. The woody accords—sandalwood, cedarwood, birch—create a cool, almost resinous undertone, whilst oakmoss and galbanum contribute a slightly green, almost medicinal quality.
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4.3/5 (222)