Fume is the olfactory equivalent of standing near a smouldering campfire as twilight falls—not acrid or choking, but rather the lingering, almost sweet smoke that clings to your jumper afterwards. It captures that hazy, contemplative quality of incense smoke curling through air, with subtle undertones of charred wood, burnt resins, and a whisper of something almost leather-like. There's an intimate, cosy quality despite its smoky nature; it feels less like a forest fire and more like the dying embers of an evening bonfire.
"Fume" typically refers to synthetic smoke accords rather than a single natural ingredient. Perfumers create these through combinations of cade oil (distilled from juniper wood tar), birch tar, and various aromatic chemicals like guaiacol and creosol—compounds naturally present in wood smoke. Some formulations incorporate iso e super or ambroxan to create that diffusive, ethereal quality. The concept emerged in the mid-20th century as perfumers sought to capture smoke's psychological essence without actual burning materials, making it a distinctly modern creation born from chemistry rather than botany.
Fume typically anchors compositions as a base or mid-note, lending mysterious depth and unconventional sophistication. Perfumers use it sparingly to avoid overwhelming; a touch transforms a fragrance into something smoky-sensual, whilst heavier doses create avant-garde, almost smoky-woody profiles. It pairs exceptionally well with leather, amber, and earthy notes, creating complex, introspective fragrances.