Carthusia
Carthusia
75 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright citrus—lemon and bergamot—erupts first, immediately joined by artemisia's green, herbaceous bite and that peculiar salty-ozonic marine accord that feels strangely atmospheric. You're transported somewhere coastal and Mediterranean, but before you can settle into the scene, the aromatic freshness begins its rapid dissipation.
The florals emerge with surprising sophistication as the citrus retreats. Magnolia's creamy-green character blooms alongside geranium's rosy-verdant undertones, whilst pink pepper crackles gently against neroli's bitter-orange backdrop. For perhaps ninety minutes, the composition achieves genuine beauty—balanced, green-floral, with enough spice to prevent sweetness from overtaking the narrative.
What remains is a whisper of white musk and tonka's subtle sweetness, barely distinguishable from skin warmth. The vetiver and elemi resin fade almost imperceptibly, leaving you questioning whether anything remains at all. By the fourth hour, you're chasing the memory of the fragrance rather than experiencing its presence.
Essence of the Park is a fragrance caught between whispered intention and barely-there presence—a scent that feels most comfortable existing in the margins. Luca Maffei has crafted something genuinely verdant here; the lemon and bergamot open onto artemisia (that bitter-green, almost medicinal herb) and those intriguing marine notes that lend a faintly salty, ozonic character, as if you're standing in a Mediterranean garden that overlooks the coast. This isn't a cheerful citrus fragrance—it's contemplative, almost austere.
The heart reveals Maffei's deft touch with florals. Magnolia and lily of the valley intertwine with geranium's rosy-green character, while pink pepper and clove add a subtle prickling warmth that prevents the composition from becoming too delicate or powder-soft. There's a faint indolic quality emerging, just enough to give the flowers depth without tipping into indulgence. The neroli bridges the floral-citrus divide, lending that bitter-sweet orange blossom character.
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Lorenzo Villoresi
3.9/5 (83)