Trussardi
Trussardi
106 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Italian lemon explodes with surprising citral brightness before the star anise and cardamom immediately assert themselves, creating a spiced, slightly licorice-tinged aromatic blast that feels more aperitivo-bar than fresh-squeezed. The sharpness is deliberate and somewhat bracing—this opening refuses to coddle.
The composition settles into a peppery, resinous warmth as the elemi and black pepper come into focus, with tagetes adding a slightly bitter, chrysanthemum-like green note that keeps everything grounded and sophisticated. The patchouli weaves through underneath, creamy and earthy, whilst the fragrance begins its gradual pivot towards sweetness without ever losing its spiced, slightly austere backbone.
Bourbon vanilla and liqueur gradually dominate, softening the peppery sharpness into a creamy, dessert-like warmth that settles into the skin with subtle, intimate presence. The spice remains present—a whisper rather than a shout—creating a bittersweet finish that lingers between gourmand comfort and aromatic restraint.
Via Fiori Chiari captures that peculiar moment when a Milanese aperitivo hour collides with a spice merchant's workshop. The Italian lemon arrives bright and assertive, but Guéros immediately tempers it with star anise and Guatemala cardamom—a choice that feels almost confrontational, refusing the expected citrus freshness in favour of something considerably more aromatic and peppery. This is no cheerful cologne; it's a fragrance with architectural ambitions.
The heart is where the composition reveals its true character: elemi resin mingles with black pepper and tagetes, creating a bitter-green spiciness that plays against the creamy, slightly earthy patchouli. There's a liqueur-like sweetness beginning to emerge beneath this spiced middle, hinting at the gourmand direction to come, yet the composition never capitulates to outright sweetness. Instead, it maintains a deliberate tension—aromatic and slightly austere, with only hints of indulgence.
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4.0/5 (349)