Givenchy
Givenchy
344 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Black pepper crackles across your skin with an almost ferocious snap, immediately joined by orange blossom's tart bergamot character, cutting through what could otherwise be oppressive sweetness. Within moments, tuberose emerges with its characteristic creamy indolence, and you're struck by the interplay—spice against floral opulence, citrus brightness refusing to be overwhelmed.
The tuberose consolidates into something almost custard-like as the roasted sesame absolute reveals itself, introducing an unusual gourmand warmth that feels almost savoury against the florals. Patchouli and leather edge in from beneath, adding a subtle tobacco-leaf dryness and animalic grip that prevents the composition from becoming purely confectionery. This is the phase where the fragrance finds its true character: a creamy, spiced floral with unexpected depth.
Bourbon vanilla emerges as the dominant force, merging seamlessly with vetiver's grassy earthiness and the lingering leather-patchouli base into something resembling warm suede dusted with vanilla powder. The tuberose fades to an olfactory memory, a ghost of its former intensity, whilst the sesame absolute's warmth persists like the residual heat of autumn sun.
L'Interdit Intense is a fragrance that refuses gentleness. Dominique Ropion has crafted something deliberately sensual rather than delicate—a tuberose that doesn't whisper but demands attention, anchored by the warm grip of roasted sesame and leather. This is where the 2020 reformulation distinguishes itself: the creamy sesame absolute (that 64% creamy accord) doesn't soften the floral heart so much as cushion it, creating an almost custard-like texture beneath the orange blossom's neroli brightness and tuberose's intoxicating indolic swell.
The black pepper opening promises volatility, but what emerges is controlled restraint—a spice that seasons rather than burns. This is crucial: the spice (76% accord) prevents the florals from becoming saccharine, whilst the bourbon vanilla and patchouli foundation adds a dusty, slightly animalic warmth. There's leather here too, a subtle tannic dryness that keeps everything grounded when it might otherwise drift into pure gourmand territory.
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Annette Neuffer
3.9/5 (80)