Swiss Arabian
Swiss Arabian
105 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A sharp, almost peppery oud assault—the Cambodian variety especially prominent, herbaceous and slightly fermented—immediately establishing woody authority whilst the Indonesian strain adds darker, smoky undertones. Within moments, the amber begins its patient work, warming the top with subtle honeyed character that prevents pure austerity.
The three ouds achieve uncomfortable equilibrium as the Indian oud emerges with deeper, almost leathery richness. The spice accord gains definition here, introducing peppery crispness that dances against the increasingly resinous, incense-like development, whilst the gourmand base notes hint at amber and warm woods without ever descending into sweetness.
The composition settles into a resinous, woody meditation—the individual oud sources now blended into singular character, amber-warmed and slightly earthy. What remains is more abstract than the opening's boldness; a skin scent that suggests expensive incense burners and aged wood rather than fresh oud application.
Dehn el Oud Mubarak is an uncompromising oud affair that treats the resinous heartwood as protagonist rather than supporting player. Swiss Arabian has assembled a trinity of oud sources—Cambodian and Indonesian varieties clashing immediately in the opening before the Indian oud anchors everything in the heart—creating a fragrance that refuses subtlety. This is oud experienced in three distinct regional dialects, each bringing its own character to the composition.
The woody accord dominates at 100%, unsurprising given the material, but what distinguishes this from straightforward oud compositions is the amber-resinous backbone (88% and 76% respectively) that provides genuine sweetness rather than mere animalic depth. There's a genuine gourmand undertow in the base—not the fruited sweetness of modern designer fragrances, but something more ambered, almost caramelised, suggesting lengthy maceration of oud in warm, slightly honeyed woods. The 64% spicy accord cuts through potential cloying, introducing black pepper and perhaps cardamom that prevents the composition from becoming one-dimensional incense.
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3.5/5 (115)