Simone Andreoli
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The sugared lime hits with an almost sherbety intensity, bright and crystalline, with candy-like sweetness dominating the citrus rather than brightening it. This is deliberately confectionery—artificial lime cordial rather than honest bergamot—establishing the fragrance's playful, unapologetic character immediately.
As the top notes fade (quickly), the passion fruit and heliotrope emerge with surprising sensuality, the former bringing a slight fermented, jammy depth whilst heliotrope adds powdery almond nuances. The ylang ylang weaves through with creamy spice, creating a soft, almost creamy floral-fruity accord that hovers in an intentionally ambiguous space between fruity fragrance and floral eau de toilette.
The sandalwood and amber provide a thin, creamy woody base that fails to anchor anything with real conviction, the composition simply becoming softer and hazier rather than deepening. Within hours, you're left with the merest whisper of sweet, creamy woody nothingness—the fragrance essentially evaporates rather than settling into a meaningful base.
*Don't Ask Me Permission* announces itself as a statement of unapologetic frivolity, a fragrance that treats hedonism as its primary directive. The opening volley of sugared lime creates an almost candied citrus effect—think lime cordial rather than fresh citrus zest—establishing a deliberately artificial, almost confectionery sensibility that refuses to apologise for its sweetness.
What's most compelling here is how Simone Andreoli allows the passion fruit and heliotrope to dominate the heart without restraint. The passion fruit brings a slightly jammy, almost fermented quality that prevents the composition from devolving into pure gourmand territory, whilst the heliotrope adds a powdery, slightly almond-tinged softness. Ylang ylang threads through it all with that characteristic spicy-floral richness, occasionally threatening to tip the composition into soapy territory but never quite arriving. The synthetic accords (which comprise nearly two-thirds of the fragrance's character) lend an almost plasticky, modern sheen—this isn't naturalism, it's deliberate artifice presented without apology.
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2.8/5 (123)