Santa Maria Novella
Santa Maria Novella
89 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The neroli arrives with a crisp, almost bracing luminosity, immediately joined by that distinctive galbanum greenness—like crushed lily stems and sun-warmed grass—whilst the Sichuan pepper adds a subtle numbing spice that tingles rather than burns. Within thirty seconds, you've already understood this fragrance's minimalist intent.
Jasmine sambac softens the edges without surrendering the green core; champaca flower adds a honeyed, almost fruity warmth that plays beautifully against the geranium's peppery dryness. The powdery accords bloom here, creating an almost cosmetic softness that feels like wearing vintage cashmere—expensive and slightly nostalgic.
The iris absolute finally takes command, revealing itself as the true skeleton of the composition—that pale, root-like dryness settles into skin like talcum and old paper. Musk and ambergris create a subtle, almost transparent halo rather than a heavy base, leaving behind something closer to a skin scent than a fragrance; intimate and faintly powdered.
L'Iris is a fragrance that treats florals as architecture rather than decoration. Gian Luca Perris has constructed something deliberately austere—a scent that whispers rather than declares, built on the foundational dryness of Florentine iris absolute married to a sharp green galbanum that cuts through any risk of sentimentality.
The opening volley is deceptive in its brightness. Neroli and Nepalese Sichuan pepper create a citric-spicy snap that feels almost edible, whilst galbanum leans into that particular green opacity you find in expensive skincare—vegetal, slightly metallic, uncompromisingly modern. But this isn't a fresh fragrance trying to smell clean; it's a fresh fragrance that smells considered.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.8/5 (174)