Ramón Monegal
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and grapefruit burst forth with crisp, almost tart intensity, immediately joined by orange's brightness—a fresh, Mediterranean moment that feels almost contradictory to what's coming. Within moments, the citrus begins to splinter and scatter as the spice accord emerges, peppering the airspace with something faintly sharp and slightly acrid.
The spice deepens considerably as geranium's green-peppery character takes hold, whilst jasmine provides a creamy, almost soapy texture that adds unexpected intimacy. Oakmoss and cedarwood begin their slow emergence from beneath, creating a woody-green dryness that transforms the composition into something distinctly aromatic and herbal, like crushed green foliage meeting old timber.
What remains is primarily wood and resin—a dry, slightly bitter embrace of cedarwood and myrrh that becomes increasingly abstract and incense-like. The fragrance settles into a contemplative whisper, leaning heavily on oakmoss's earthy, slightly metallic character, creating an almost minimalist final statement that lingers as suggestion rather than declaration.
Umbra arrives as a deliberate contradiction—a fragrance that refuses the easy warmth of its citrus opening to instead pursue something altogether more austere and contemplative. Ramón Monegal has constructed a scent that feels like stepping into shadow, where spice (the fragrance's dominant accord at 100%) meets wood with the precision of a master craftsman rather than the whimsy of a perfume tourist.
The geranium and jasmine in the heart don't soften this composition; instead, they sharpen it, adding a peppery green bite that prevents any sentimental floral indulgence. Lily of the valley arrives as a whisper of cool minerality rather than powdery sweetness, anchoring the heart's green accord (76%) without compromising the fragrance's fundamentally woody character. This is where Umbra reveals its true personality: it's neither masculine nor feminine, but rather austere—the olfactory equivalent of Brutalist architecture.
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3.6/5 (201)