Parfums MDCI
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Nutmeg cracks across the skin with genuine spice, sharp and almost medicinal, demanding attention rather than seduction. Within moments, hedione's clean herbal-citrus character emerges, creating an unexpected freshness that keeps the composition from becoming immediately sweet.
The cypriol settles in around the thirty-minute mark, bringing an earthy, grassy counterpoint that transforms the scent into something grey-green and slightly austere. The tonka bean and vanilla begin their slow emergence, but they're intelligently restrained, rendered sophisticated by the gaiac wood's medicinal dryness and the oud's subtle leather-and-dark-fruit complexity.
After several hours, the composition distils into something contemplative and leathery-sweet. The patchouli and musk become more prominent, providing a skin-like quality, whilst the benzoin adds a caramelised warmth that prevents the gaiac wood and oud from becoming austere. What remains is pleasingly woody rather than ambery, with vanilla and tonka bean lingering as whispered sweetness beneath the leather and earth.
L'Homme aux Gants is a fragrance that smells deliberately composed, like something a man might reach for whilst buttoning a waistcoat—deliberate, refined, slightly austere. Nathalie Feisthauer has constructed a scent around the tension between spice and sweetness, one that refuses to soften into approachability.
The opening nutmeg is characterful rather than generous, providing a peppery bite that prevents any syrupy indulgence. What makes this fragrance remarkable is how the heart plays cypriol and hedione against that spice. Hedione contributes its clean, almost herbal citrus facet—think jasmine's brighter cousin—whilst cypriol (derived from cyperol grass) adds an earthy, slightly smoky undertone. Together, these create an unexpectedly green middle note that interrupts any trajectory towards gourmandise.
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3.9/5 (80)