Parfums de Marly
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The citrus arrives in a rush of zesty bergamot and grapefruit, their sharpness already softened by mandarin's syrupy sweetness. Within moments, raspberry begins to bleed through, its jammy intensity suggesting fruit that's been macerated in sugar rather than picked fresh from the cane.
Orange blossom takes centre stage, its creamy, almost narcotic character amplifying the blackcurrant's tartness whilst the berry accord deepens into something richer and more compote-like. The floral note bridges the gap between the bright opening and the cushiony base that's already beginning to emerge, adding an elegant counterpoint to all that unrepentant sweetness.
Marshmallow and cream envelop the skin in a soft, vanilla-adjacent cloud, whilst the musk and ambrette create a powdery, slightly skin-like finish that keeps it intimate. The orange blossom's indolic facets linger faintly beneath the sweetness, a reminder that there's actual perfumery at work here, not just flavouring.
Oriana is Nathalie Lorson's love letter to the creamsicle, reimagined through a haute perfumery lens and drenched in pink-lit hedonism. The citrus trio at the top—grapefruit's bitter pith, bergamot's green-edged sunshine, mandarin's candy-sweet juice—crashes headlong into a tangle of raspberry and blackcurrant that reads more as berry coulis than fresh fruit. But it's the orange blossom that does the heavy lifting here, its indolic richness binding the whole confection together whilst preventing it from tumbling into children's party territory. This is where Lorson's expertise shows: the floral anchor lends just enough sophistication to balance the shameless sweetness.
The marshmallow and cream base is unabashedly plush, a cloud of spun sugar with a soft musky halo from the ambrette. There's no pretence here—Oriana knows exactly what it is and wears its gourmand heart on its sleeve. It's the fragrance equivalent of that friend who orders the most decadent dessert on the menu without a hint of self-consciousness. The musk keeps it skin-close rather than cloying, whilst the ambrette adds a whisper of powdery texture that stops the whole affair from becoming sticky.
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3.5/5 (137)