Olfactive Studio
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Saffron hits with its characteristic metallic tang, immediately complicated by petitgrain's bitter-green citrus and an oddly jammy plum note that seems to bruise the spices before they can fully bloom. The tuberose lurks beneath, more suggestion than statement, lending a waxy, almost candle-like quality to proceedings.
Frankincense smoke billows through, dragging charred papyrus and earthy vetiver in its wake, whilst the leather accord adds an industrial edge—less saddle soap, more smouldering tyre rubber cut with dry woods. The composition grows darker, more abstract, shedding any remaining sweetness from that opening plum as it settles into something genuinely shadowy.
Benzoin's vanilla-tinged resin finally emerges to soften the blow, though the musk remains grey rather than clean, and that amber reads more as labdanum's leathery, animalic facets than golden warmth. Smoke clings to everything, a persistent ghost note that refuses to fully dissipate even as the fragrance fades to skin-scent.
Ombre Indigo sprawls across the skin like charred velvet, its opening salvo of saffron and petitgrain laced with an unexpected plum darkness that veers the composition away from conventional spice territory. This isn't the clean, medicinal saffron of attars; here, Mylène Alran renders it dusty and slightly feral, as though the threads have been stored in an apothecary drawer alongside dried tuberose petals that have lost their indolic screech but retained a peculiar, smoky sweetness. The tuberose absolute functions less as a white floral and more as textural scaffolding, its waxy richness binding the spice to what follows.
The frankincense-papyrus-vetiver troika anchors the heart with a cathedral-like solemnity, though this is a cathedral after the incense has burnt down to ash and resin-sticky residue. The leather accord emerges not as polished hide but as something more abstract—burnt rubber mingling with vetiver's earthy char, papyrus contributing a dry, almost mineralised quality that prevents the composition from collapsing into sweetness. There's a deliberate murkiness here, a refusal to resolve into easy legibility.
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3.9/5 (446)