Laboratorio Olfattivo
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Saffron hits with immediate spiced clarity, its peppery-almost-sharp character cutting across tender rose leaf. Within moments, you're standing in dried rose petals scattered across wood—dusty, slightly sweet, fundamentally unsentimental.
The Bulgarian and Turkish roses finally reveal themselves, but they're tempered by earthy patchouli that smells faintly resinous and mineral-tinged, as though the florals are being viewed through a haze of woodsmoke. This phase settles into a quietly complex, somewhat austere floral-woody dialogue where nothing feels rushed or obvious.
The composition becomes increasingly woody and amber-focused; sandalwood and cedar create a warm, almost incense-like base whilst ambergris and musk provide a subtle, powdery skin-scent quality. By the final hours, Rosamunda reads as little more than refined, slightly peppery warmth—intimate and close-to-skin.
Rosamunda is a fragrance for those who prefer their florals with architectural rigour rather than romantic softness. Marie Duchêne has constructed something deliberately dissonant here—a rose composition that refuses sentimentality. The saffron opening immediately signals intent; it brings a dusty, almost medicinal quality that grounds the rose notes in something earthy and slightly austere rather than dewy.
What emerges is a Bulgarian and Turkish rose duet that's remarkably restrained for a fragrance so heavily weighted towards floral character. Rather than the expected lushness, these roses read as dried petals, their sweetness tempered by patchouli that leans towards the mineral and leathery end of the spectrum. There's an almost herbaceous quality here—the patchouli doesn't sweeten the composition but rather adds a gritty, slightly animalic undertone that keeps the florals honest.
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3.9/5 (91)