Laboratorio Olfattivo
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The red fruits and citrus hit with unexpected tartness—cranberry-sharp bergamot and pink grapefruit pith—before smoke crashes the party within moments, turning the brightness hazy and diffuse. It's as if someone's lit a match near a bowl of berries macerated in good vodka, the sweetness and astringency now inseparable from something darker.
Geranium's rose-meets-metal character emerges, shot through with saffron's iodine-rich warmth and coriander's soapy-citric bite, whilst the leather accord builds from suggestion to statement. The fruit recedes but never disappears entirely, its sweetness now woven into the amber as the composition pivots fully into spiced, smoky territory that clings to clothing and hair.
Sandalwood's creamy woodiness anchors what remains—a soft but persistent veil of smoke-tinged leather with amber's golden sweetness glowing beneath. The spices have mellowed to a gentle warmth, and what's left is intimate and skin-close, like the ghost of the fragrance rather than its full presence, tenacious but no longer demanding attention.
Nerotic is Cécile Zarokian's meditation on contradiction—a fragrance that pairs the bright tartness of citrus and berries with the brooding intensity of smoke and leather, creating something that feels both playful and dangerous. The opening's red fruit accord, sharpened by bergamot and grapefruit, barely has time to establish itself before smoke begins to thread through, turning what could have been a jammy sweetness into something altogether more complex and unexpected. This isn't the clean smoke of incense or the rough char of birch tar; it's something more diffuse, like the scent of leather jackets hung in a room where exotic spices are being dry-roasted in an iron pan.
The geranium and saffron heart adds a metallic, almost blood-like quality that intensifies the leather accord, whilst coriander brings a peculiar green-lemony facet that keeps the composition from becoming too heavy. There's a sweetness here, but it's the sweetness of amber warmed against skin, not sugar—earthy and resinous rather than gourmand. The sandalwood provides just enough creaminess to smooth the edges without softening the fragrance's angular personality.
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3.9/5 (130)