Jil Sander
Jil Sander
137 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Black pepper explodes with peppery-woody snap, immediately brightened by bergamot's citric radiance. The effect is arresting—clean without sterility, peppery without heat—and establishes Ultrasense as something that refuses softness from the outset.
As the pepper recedes, sage emerges with dusty, slightly savoury presence whilst fir balsam introduces a cool resinousness that feels almost pharmaceutical. The fragrance now inhabits a fascinating space between botanical and synthetic, green and woody, where bergamot's sweetness has largely faded into supporting harmony.
Within four hours, Ultrasense becomes an abstract whisper—white musk attempting to establish a base that never quite materialises. What remains is more suggestion than presence, a faint herbal-woody ghost that hints at the fragrance's structural integrity whilst offering almost no sillage or longevity to the wearer.
Ultrasense reads as a fragrance caught between restraint and ambition—a whisper where a declaration might have served better. Olivier Pescheux constructs something genuinely cerebral here: the black pepper arrives with genuine bite, its sharp molecules immediately sparring with bergamot's bright citric sweetness, creating an opening that feels almost confrontational in its clarity. It's refreshing without being lazy, spicy without descending into culinary territory.
The heart reveals the designer's sophisticated hand. Sage enters with an almost herbal, slightly dusty character—that particular green-grey tonality that suggests crushed leaves rather than botanical wateriness—whilst fir balsam adds a resinous, almost medicinal coolness that prevents the composition from becoming merely pleasant. There's something vaguely mineral about this interplay, as though the scent inhabits some high-altitude space between forest and clinic.
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3.4/5 (127)