Jil Sander
Jil Sander
306 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A jolt of aniseed and bright bergamot, with tarragon adding an almost savoury green snap that feels almost herbal. The raspberry adds a fleeting fruitiness that disappears almost immediately, leaving the aniseed to establish its slightly liquorice-tinged character before lavender softens the edges into something more approachable.
Cinnamon and heliotrope emerge to complicate the spice—not warming it, but lending a faintly powdery, almost almond-like quality. The florals bloom without pretence: lily of the valley's green simplicity, rose's quietly elegant presence, carnation's slightly bitter freshness. The sweetness becomes more apparent as tonka bean and benzoin rise, creating a soft amber glow beneath the spiced florals.
The wood notes—sandalwood and cedarwood—establish themselves as the dominant players, providing a dry, slightly creamy base that prevents the vanilla and musk from becoming sugary. What remains is a soft, skin-like second skin, powdery and faintly warm, the scent of someone who's just changed into expensive casual clothes.
Background by Jil Sander arrives as a peculiar paradox—a fragrance that whispers rather than declares, yet carries unexpected depth beneath its restrained demeanour. Jean-François Latty has crafted something quietly radical: an aniseed-forward composition that could feel brash in lesser hands, but instead achieves an almost medicinal sophistication through meticulous balance. The aniseed doesn't announce itself as liquorice or pastis; rather, it threads through the opening like a whispered secret, supported by bergamot's crisp geometry and tarragon's faintly herbaceous undertone.
What makes Background genuinely arresting is how the florals refuse hierarchy. Heliotrope and cinnamon create an unexpected bridge between the spiced top notes and the floral heart—not a traditional almond-vanilla sweetness, but something more austere, almost peppery. The lily of the valley, carnation, and rose exist in a strange confederation, each maintaining its own character without blending into an indistinct bouquet. There's a slight soapiness here, the scent of luxury linens and high-thread-count minimalism.
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3.4/5 (134)