Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean Paul Gaultier
386 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The fig leaf arrives with characteristic herbal sharpness, almost lemony in its top-note bite, immediately undercut by cocoa's warming presence. Within minutes, the composition feels deliberately subdued, as if determined to avoid any initial splash.
The cocoa and patchouli establish themselves with understated authority—dusty, slightly bitter, unmistakably earthy rather than sweet. The patchouli particularly asserts itself here, creating a soft, almost fuzzy base that resists any temptation toward gourmand excess.
Cedarwood and vetiver emerge to claim dominion, rendering the fragrance decidedly woody and austere. What remains is skeletal, drying, barely perceptible—a whisper of cocoa lingering on fabric rather than skin.
Kokorico announces itself as a deliberately earthbound fragrance, one that eschews florality for the tactile warmth of skin and soil. The fig leaf opens with a crisp, slightly herbaceous freshness—that peculiar green snap you get from bruised foliage—before the composition rapidly pivots toward its true nature: a gourmand study in cocoa and patchouli that feels almost edible. There's something deliberately unglamorous about this pairing; the cocoa isn't the refined chocolate of designer confectionery, but rather the darker, more astringent quality of unsweetened powder. The patchouli underneath doesn't bloom with the earthy swagger typical of the note; instead, it sits as a grounding agent, anchoring the sweetness to something genuinely terrestrial.
This is a fragrance for the cedarwood and vetiver base to eventually dominate, which they do with admirable restraint. Rather than competing for attention, these woody elements create a drying framework that prevents the gourmand heart from ever becoming cloying. The overall effect is almost contradictory: simultaneously intimate and austere, offering comfort without indulgence.
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3.8/5 (118)