Grès
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The aldehydic wave hits immediately, sharp and slightly metallic, carrying with it herbaceous tarragon and the peculiar funk of asafoetida—there's something almost savoury here, like spiced leather warming on skin. Citrus zests through but feels subdued, more mineral than fruity, while sage provides a green, slightly antiseptic edge.
The florals emerge gradually, with geranium's spicy-green character blending seamlessly into rose and jasmine, all threaded through with powdery orris root. The leather accord deepens considerably, becoming less abstract and more tactile—this is genuine leather-forward territory now, supported by tobacco's warm, slightly burnt undertones that add genuine complexity to the floral sweetness.
What remains is predominantly base structure—oakmoss and vetiver establish an earthy, slightly mossy foundation whilst patchouli, musk, and a whisper of coconut create a creamy, skin-like quality. The leather persists stubbornly, now softened by hours of wear but still distinctly present, creating a gentle but unmissable signature that clings rather than projects.
Cabochard is a fragrance that announces itself with the confidence of someone who refuses to whisper. Bernard Chant crafted something genuinely uncompromising here—a chypre that leans hard into its leather and spice accords, treating florals not as the main event but as a stabilising force within a more austere composition.
The opening assault of aldehydes and asafoetida is deliberately pungent, almost confrontational. There's a savoury quality here, herbaceous and slightly fermented, as if someone's layered sage and tarragon over a base of aldehydic shimmer. This isn't a fragrance seeking consensus. The citrus fruits arrive to add luminosity, but they're tempered, slightly bitter—more bergamot bite than cheerful brightness.
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4.0/5 (207)