Goutal
Goutal
162 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The ginger ignites immediately with peppery snap, whilst lemon provides a bright veneer that the shiso leaf immediately complicates—herbal, almost mint-like, with an odd pickled quality that keeps the citrus from feeling conventional. Within minutes, the composition feels deliberately off-balance, fresh yet prickly.
The white florals settle into view, but they're muted, almost reluctant to announce themselves against the persistent green-spicy undertones. Magnolia adds a pale, slightly powdery quality whilst jasmine sambac contributes a soft indole whisper rather than creamy abundance. The ginger recedes but never disappears, maintaining that unusual spiced-green personality throughout.
What remains is gossamer-thin—gaiac wood emerges with a faint woody-resinous presence, ylang ylang dissolves into creamy anonymity, and the overall effect becomes increasingly whispered, almost imperceptible. Within four to five hours, you're left checking your skin to confirm it's still there.
Un Matin d'Orage captures that peculiar stillness before a storm breaks—the electric tension in the air, the green smell of rain about to fall. Isabelle Doyen constructs something genuinely liminal here: the shiso leaf provides an almost medicinal astringency that cuts through the initial ginger bite, refusing to let the citrus sweeten into conventional freshness. This is where the fragrance's backbone lives—that interplay between spicy warmth and herbaceous cool creates an almost unsettling balance, like standing in a greenhouse during a thunderstorm with the windows open.
The magnolia and jasmine sambac emerge as the composition breathes, but they're not here to seduce. Instead, they function as restraint—delicate florals that smell almost dewey against the green, peppery foundations beneath them. There's something almost austere about how Doyen refuses to let this become a lush white floral. The ylang ylang in the base arrives as a whisper rather than a declaration, merging with the gaiac wood's faint smoky-resinous quality to suggest something almost mineral.
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Penhaligon's
3.8/5 (213)