Giorgio Armani
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The first spray delivers an almost startling brightness—calabrian bergamot's sharp citrus oils meet marine salinity and ginger's warming spice in a combination that feels both cooling and stimulating. The aquatic element here is remarkably natural, more like actual sea spray on skin than the melon-cucumber synthetics that plague many marine fragrances.
As the citrus recedes, the real character emerges through that triumvirate of geranium, sage, and rosemary—green, slightly bitter, unmistakably herbal in a way that recalls Provençal hillsides after rain. The bourbon geranium adds a subtle rosy-minty complexity that keeps the aromatics from becoming too kitchen-like, whilst the marine whisper still hovers underneath.
Frankincense becomes the dominant voice here, its resinous, slightly lemony incense quality merging with patchouli's dark earthiness to create something contemplative and grounding. The woods remain diffuse rather than specific, allowing the incense-patchouli pairing to settle into skin with a warmth that contradicts the aquatic opening entirely.
Alberto Morillas has reimagined Acqua di Giò for 2023 with a frankincense-anchored intensity that feels like watching storm clouds gather over the Ligurian coast. This is no translucent splash of marine freshness—the parfum concentration brings weight and complexity, where the original played with weightlessness. The opening marriage of bergamot and ginger creates an almost effervescent citrus bite, whilst the marine accord doesn't rely on tired Calone tricks but instead suggests salt-sprayed rock and damp stone rather than synthetic melon-aquatic clichés. What elevates this beyond typical masculine freshness is the herbaceous troika of geranium, clary sage, and rosemary at its heart—these aren't polite garnishes but robust, almost medicinal green notes that smell of crushed stems and essential oils. The Guatemalan patchouli grounds everything with an earthy, slightly chocolatey darkness, whilst frankincense weaves through like incense smoke caught in sea wind. This feels designed for someone who's moved beyond the optimistic freshness of the original—perhaps the same wearer, twenty years on, seeking something more contemplative and structured. It's a fragrance for dawn coastal walks in autumn, for crisp shirts worn against cooling air, for those moments when you want to smell clean but unmistakably present. The unisex designation makes perfect sense; there's nothing overtly masculine about these particular woods and resins.
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3.8/5 (1.2k)