Geo. F. Trumper
Geo. F. Trumper
130 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Blackcurrant bursts through with natural tartness, immediately brightened by lemon zest, whilst coriander and cumin establish themselves as savoury anchors rather than sweet spice. The opening feels almost green, verging on herbal—a far cry from the powdered florals of its era.
Lily of the valley emerges as a translucent, slightly aqueous presence, whilst clove and marjoram layer in with peppery precision. The composition becomes increasingly botanical, with thyme adding a dusty, slightly astringent character that prevents any floral excess; the jasmine integrates as an elegant supporting player rather than the star.
Sandalwood and moss form a soft, woody-green foundation whilst amber and musk create an intimate, skin-like base that becomes increasingly whispered and intimate, fading into a faint herbaceous memory that clings almost imperceptibly to fabric.
Eucris arrives as a deliberate contradiction: a fragrance that refuses the saccharine sweetness expected of early twentieth-century florals. The blackcurrant opens with a slightly tart, almost green intensity, immediately tempered by coriander and cumin that transform what could have been jammy fruit into something bracing and herbaceous. This is where Eucris reveals its philosophy—spice as a sharpening agent rather than a warming blanket.
The heart introduces lily of the valley with studied restraint, allowing it to emerge as a cool, almost watery floral rather than the creamy rendition found in contemporaries. Clove and marjoram wrestle for prominence alongside jasmine, creating a composition that feels more botanical than perfumed—think crushed herbs underfoot in a Mediterranean garden rather than a vial of fragrant liquid. The thyme adds an earthy, slightly astringent quality that keeps everything tethered to reality.
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3.6/5 (106)