Aramis
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The coriander immediately dominates, a slightly peppery spice that plays beautifully against the bright citrus trio of bergamot and lemon. The rosewood adds a subtle woodiness that prevents this from becoming a typical fougère, whilst the green notes lend a slightly herbaceous, almost slightly astringent quality—like crushed herbs rather than fruity freshness.
The floral character emerges gradually as the citrus mellows, revealing a soft, powdery blend of rose and carnation with lily of the valley's delicate sweetness. The geranium adds a slightly dusty, green-tinged quality to the florals, whilst orris root creates that talcum-like softness that anchors everything in a refined, almost retro elegance.
By the fourth hour, what remains is primarily a soft, woody-earthy quality from the patchouli and oakmoss, with just traces of sandalwood warmth and vetiver's mineral dryness. The fragrance becomes increasingly skin-scent territory—subtle, almost like you've absorbed it rather than worn it, with the civet providing a final gossamer-thin warmth.
Aramis 900 is a fragrance that refuses to whisper. Bernard Chant's 1973 composition announces itself with the kind of confident spice that dominated men's grooming in that era—coriander seeds crackling against the brightness of bergamot and lemon, immediately establishing a scent that's herbaceous rather than sweet. The rosewood and green notes add a slightly woody bite to the citrus opening, creating something altogether sharper and more austere than typical cologne.
What's remarkable about 900 is how thoroughly it commits to its floral interior. This isn't floral as a supporting player; the rose, geranium, and carnation form a deeply perfumed heart that sits atop a distinctly chypre-leaning base. The orris root here lends a powdery, almost talcum-like quality to the florals, while patchouli and oakmoss provide a earthy, slightly vetiver-tinged dryness beneath. There's a whiff of civet too—not animalic in the modern sense, but rather lending a subtle warmth and skin-like quality that makes the composition feel lived-in rather than pristine.
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4.2/5 (146)