Armaf
Armaf
159 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The lemon erupts first, sharp and slightly astringent, immediately joined by a pepper-cinnamon duet that creates a warming, almost spicy bite. Within moments you're enveloped in a sweet-spice haze that feels almost edible, the cinnamon particularly prominent as it cuts through the citrus with genuine heat.
The tobacco emerges like something opening its eyes, grounding all that initial spice into something richer and more complex—earthy and faintly leathery against the amber's honeyed warmth. The geranium and lavender drift in subtly, adding a whispered floral sophistication that prevents the sweetness from becoming cloying, whilst the frankincense lends a resinous, slightly incense-like depth that makes the composition feel more refined than its initial exuberance suggested.
The cedarwood and vetiver form a woody-earthy foundation that's warmed by lingering amber, creating a soft amber-tobacco base that's remarkably skin-like and comforting. The spice has mellowed into a gentle warmth, the fragrance settling into a creamy, almost powdery iteration of itself—understated and intimate where it once dominated.
Radical Brown is a fragrance that refuses subtlety. It opens with a sharp, almost aggressive citrus-spice combination—the lemon here isn't fresh or delicate, but rather a tart, slightly bitter thing that collides immediately with pepper and cinnamon, creating a peppery-sweet burn that feels almost peppery-sweet. This is no gentle introduction; it's a slap of warming spices that announces itself with confidence.
What makes Radical Brown genuinely compelling is how its spice accord doesn't devolve into generic gourmand territory. The tobacco in the heart is the real backbone here—it's earthy, slightly leathery, and it grounds the sweetness that the amber and cistus are trying to inject. The geranium adds a subtle floral restraint, preventing the composition from tipping into pure candy, whilst frankincense introduces a resinous, almost medicinal quality that sits in elegant tension with the gourmand elements. The cinnamon and pepper continue to whisper throughout, never fully retreating.
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3.8/5 (75)