Aqua Savon / アクア シャボン
Aqua Savon / アクア シャボン
110 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A sharp cornflower brightness arrives with an unmistakable funk that immediately wrong-foots expectations. This isn't fresh and soapy; something slightly feral emerges within seconds, signalling that pleasantries will be abandoned.
Creamy hazelnut and oat warmth develops, initially seductive, before that spoiled meat note creates genuine unease—the fragrance pivots from gourmand comfort to something genuinely unsettling. Spice crackles through, sharpening the sweetness into something provocative and strange.
Charcoal and vetiver establish a dry, smoky, almost medicinal finish. The gourmand elements fade into a burnt, austere base that contradicts everything that came before, leaving something skeletal and austere rather than warm.
Aqua Savon Spa Collection Plumeria arrives as a deliberate contradiction—a gourmand fragrance that refuses sentimentality. Mathilde Bijaoui has constructed something genuinely provocative here: the opening cornflower's slightly funky character immediately signals this isn't a conventional sweet composition. That funk (likely a touch of indolic richness) prevents the fragrance from reading as purely innocent, lending it an almost unsettling complexity that demands attention.
The heart reveals the designer's audacious choice: hazelnut and oat create a creamy, nearly edible warmth, yet this gourmand sweetness is destabilised by spoiled meat—a note that shouldn't work but somehow does. Rather than rendering the fragrance unpleasant, this discord creates genuine tension, as if you're smelling a gourmet dish just past its prime, all nutty richness contaminated by something rotten underneath. It's uncomfortable in the most compelling way. That spicy accord (likely from pepper or clove) adds sharpness, preventing the composition from ever settling into comfort.
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3.9/5 (182)