Abou Jamil Perfumery
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright raspberry and apricot combust against bergamot's citric zing, creating immediate fruity warmth—but there's something subtly wrong, a faint saline-petroleum note creeping beneath the sweetness that makes you pause and inhale again. Is that really bilge, or just your nose playing tricks?
The florals establish themselves with authority: powdery rose and iris create a soft, vintage femininity whilst jasmine adds a slightly sweaty, human quality that grounds the composition. The fruit fades into the background as the powdery accords intensify, transforming the fragrance into something far more elegantly restrained than those opening moments suggested.
Tonka's caramel warmth attempts to dominate, but cedarwood and sandalwood resist with austere, almost medicated dryness. That industrial smog note emerges fully, wrapping everything in a faintly grey, slightly unsettling woody veil—it's neither comfortable nor entirely pleasant, but it lingers with stubborn, peculiar magnetism.
Ambergriss arrives as a contradiction wrapped in powdered silk—a fragrance that seems pulled from a 1980s perfume organ, all fruited sweetness and floral restraint, yet marked by a deeply unusual base that prevents it from ever feeling conventional. Jacques Huclier has crafted something genuinely unclassifiable here: the opening marriage of tart raspberry and apricot against bergamot's brightness should feel summery and uncomplicated, but that creeping note of bilge—yes, actual bilge—introduces an almost industrial undercurrent, a whisper of something brackish and vaguely marine that destabilises the entire composition's sweetness.
The heart is where Huclier reveals his hand: Bulgarian rose and Florentine iris create a distinctly powdery floral structure, while jasmine adds a fleshy, almost animalic warmth that prevents this from becoming a simple soliflore. The rose-iris pairing has that characteristic dustiness of 1980s rose perfumery, before modern chemistry made roses smell uniformly jammy and pristine. It's sophisticated in its restraint, feminine without being precious.
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3.1/5 (199)