XXY

XXY arrives with the sort of confident exuberance that announces itself before settling into something far more intricate. That opening peach is lush without tipping into syrup—there's a skin-like quality to it, almost downy, lifted by bergamot's bright oils and grapefruit's pink-fleshed bitterness. Jacques Flori doesn't let this fruitiness linger in dessert territory; black pepper begins its work almost immediately, adding a crackling heat that makes the jasmine and ylang ylang feel less like a floral bouquet and more like an expensive cosmetic oil, waxy and indolic. The iris contributes its signature carrot-seed rootiness, a grey-violet coolness that tempers the peach's sweetness and creates unexpected tension.

What follows is a masterclass in balance. The woody-ambery base—labdanum's leathery resin, vetiver's earthy smoke, sandalwood's creamy grain—rises to meet the florals and spice in a way that feels architectural rather than linear. There's vanilla here, but it's restrained, working alongside musk to soften rather than dominate. Patchouli adds its earthy chocolate facets without turning the composition head-shoppy. This is a fragrance for those who appreciate complexity over volume, who want their scent to reveal itself in layers throughout the day. It suits the person who wears tailoring with ease, who understands that true luxury needn't shout. Unisex in the truest sense—not because it's neutered, but because it draws on the full palette without gender-coded constraints.