XerJoff
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Ripe peach arrives with citrus oils still glistening on its surface—bergamot's green brightness and grapefruit's bitter pith cutting through the fruit's fuzz. Black pepper sparks almost immediately, a dry heat that prevents any jamminess, whilst iris begins its cool, powdery infiltration from beneath.
The florals bloom with adult sophistication: jasmine's indolic creaminess tangles with ylang ylang's banana-rubber richness, both held in check by that persistent iris and the pepper's lingering bite. Sandalwood emerges as a milky backdrop, its sweet sawdust warmth mingling with the first whispers of labdanum's amber-leather depths.
What remains is a skin-close veil of musk and vanilla, earthed by vetiver's smoky roots and patchouli's chocolate-brown darkness. The labdanum's resinous grip holds everything together, creating an ambery shroud that feels both familiar and quietly opulent, with just enough fruit-memory to remind you where this journey began.
XXY arrives with the sort of confident exuberance that announces itself before settling into something far more intricate. That opening peach is lush without tipping into syrup—there's a skin-like quality to it, almost downy, lifted by bergamot's bright oils and grapefruit's pink-fleshed bitterness. Jacques Flori doesn't let this fruitiness linger in dessert territory; black pepper begins its work almost immediately, adding a crackling heat that makes the jasmine and ylang ylang feel less like a floral bouquet and more like an expensive cosmetic oil, waxy and indolic. The iris contributes its signature carrot-seed rootiness, a grey-violet coolness that tempers the peach's sweetness and creates unexpected tension.
What follows is a masterclass in balance. The woody-ambery base—labdanum's leathery resin, vetiver's earthy smoke, sandalwood's creamy grain—rises to meet the florals and spice in a way that feels architectural rather than linear. There's vanilla here, but it's restrained, working alongside musk to soften rather than dominate. Patchouli adds its earthy chocolate facets without turning the composition head-shoppy. This is a fragrance for those who appreciate complexity over volume, who want their scent to reveal itself in layers throughout the day. It suits the person who wears tailoring with ease, who understands that true luxury needn't shout. Unisex in the truest sense—not because it's neutered, but because it draws on the full palette without gender-coded constraints.
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4.3/5 (91)