XerJoff
XerJoff
127 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The iris and jasmine form an unexpectedly sharp introduction, with the jasmine's indolic quality immediately tempered by herbal greenness. The top notes feel clean, almost austere—closer to white flowers rendered through a botanical prism than to conventional florals. There's an immediate sense of restraint, as though someone has turned the volume down on what could have been something more traditionally pretty.
Hyacinth and pineapple emerge to transform the composition into something genuinely odd and compelling. The hyacinth adds a waxy, slightly green-floral depth whilst the pineapple's tartness prevents the florals from becoming soft. The citrus notes blur the distinction between fruit and leaf, creating an effect more green-mango-leaf than blood orange. The woody base becomes increasingly present here, grounding the top-heavy florals with something solid and slightly austere.
Pink pepper's gentle warmth becomes the fragrance's primary character, though the woody accord dominates in weight. The florals fade dramatically, leaving a composition that's almost entirely green-woody-spiced—the iris and hyacinth reduced to whispered suggestions. The overall effect is more botanical than floral, leaning towards herbal tea or dried botanicals. The fragrance settles into something considerably more austere and masculine than its opening promised.
Verde Accento arrives as a peculiar sort of iris fragrance—one that refuses the powdery domesticity most iris compositions demand. Christian Carbonnel constructs something considerably greener, almost architectural in its restraint. The iris here doesn't settle into the expected creamy, rooty territory; instead, it's sharpened by hyacinth's green-floral bite and pushed further into vegetal territory by the accords' dominance of green (88%) and fresh (52%) signatures. There's a strange tension between the fragrance's floral declaration and its underlying verdancy, as though someone has plucked an iris from a formal garden and thrust it into damp undergrowth.
The pineapple arrives not as tropical sweetness but as a tart, almost green fruit note—more stem than flesh. This curious choice prevents Verde Accento from becoming conventionally pretty. Pink pepper in the base suggests warmth without comfort, adding a subtle prickle that keeps the composition from settling into cosiness. The woody accord (64%) underpins everything with dry timber that feels almost structural, as if the florals are arranged on scaffolding rather than tumbling freely.
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3.5/5 (137)