XerJoff
XerJoff
167 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Shamamatul Amber Attar announces itself with immediate, almost peppery-spiced intensity, aniseed lending a faintly herbal sweetness that catches in the back of the throat. Pink pepper crackles atop, creating an initial brightness that feels almost effervescent against the dense, oily amber foundation—like striking a match in a darkened library.
As the top notes settle, rose and amberwood emerge as a cohesive golden-bronze mass, the labdanum absolute introducing a subtle smokiness that prevents the floral from becoming merely pretty. Violet threads through beneath, contributing a soft powdery restraint that humanises what threatens to become overwhelmingly opulent.
The fragrance gradually surrenders sweetness to structure—oud and cedarwood assert themselves with quiet authority, whilst patchouli adds an earthy grounding note. Moss softens the woody edges into something mineral and atmospheric, a lingering amber-skin-musk territory that suggests intimate proximity rather than projection.
Astaral occupies a peculiar middle ground between attar tradition and contemporary amber-floral design, arriving as a fragrance that refuses easy categorisation. The Shamamatul Amber Attar opening is immediately arresting—a dense, resinous declaration that carries the weight of concentrated rose absolute and decades-old oud. Yet Xerjoff tempers this potential heaviness with aniseed and pink pepper, which create a curious spice-tinged brightness that prevents the composition from collapsing into pure richness.
What makes Astaral compelling is the tension between its competing impulses. The rose-amberwood-violet heart suggests classical Middle Eastern perfumery, that luxurious tradition of floral oils marinated in golden resins. But the labdanum absolute cuts through with a distinctly bitter-sweet character, almost tobacco-like in its depth, anchoring what could otherwise drift into generic floral fantasy. This is a scent with actual geological backbone.
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3.8/5 (126)