Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf
24.3k votes
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A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The caraway and black pepper hit like a slap of cold air laced with heat, sharp and almost abrasive, with saffron threading through like red leather and heated metal. It's confrontational at first, the spices competing rather than harmonising, creating an intentional discord that demands attention.
As the carrot seed emerges, everything suddenly makes sense—the cinnamon blooms into a dry, woody spice rather than a sweet one, whilst the paprika adds a subtle smokiness that lets the tobacco unfurl. The carrot seed brings an earthy, almost sweaty muskiness that anchors the composition to skin, making it feel lived-in rather than sprayed on.
The vanilla finally takes the stage, but it's a thick, almost resinous vanilla bolstered by bourbon facets and woody undertones that keep it from going soft. The cinnamon persists as a gentle warmth, never fully fading, whilst the tobacco leaves a dry, slightly powdery trail that clings to fabric and skin for hours.
Spicebomb Extreme isn't so much a fragrance as a controlled detonation of warmth. Olivier Polge has crafted something that takes the spice cabinet raid of the original and throws it into a vat of bourbon vanilla, creating an almost gourmand intensity that teeters on the edge without ever toppling into sweetness. The opening salvo of black pepper and caraway cuts through with a harsh, almost medicinal bite, whilst saffron adds a leathery, metallic undertone that keeps things from veering into biscuit territory. What makes this compelling is the carrot seed accord in the heart—an often overlooked note that brings an earthy, slightly sweaty quality, grounding the cinnamon and paprika so they read less like Christmas and more like spiced leather worn close to skin.
The tobacco here isn't the honeyed pipe tobacco of a gentleman's club; it's drier, almost ashy, shot through with that persistent cinnamon heat that radiates from the skin. The vanilla base is substantial—almost edible—but the woody notes provide just enough structure to stop this from becoming a dessert. This is for the man who wants to be noticed in a crowded room without saying a word, who understands that projection isn't about volume but about density. Spicebomb Extreme demands cold weather and evening wear; it's too much for summer, too bold for the office. It's date night when you want to leave an impression, winter nights out, the confident third date. Unapologetically masculine, bordering on aggressive, yet somehow inviting.
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4.4/5 (18.7k)