Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels
260 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Myrtle's green-grey sharpness collides with bergamot's crystalline brightness, immediately seized by juniper's resinous grip and nutmeg's hot spice—the effect is bracing, almost medicinal, like inhaling the vapours above a spice merchant's counter mixed with gin botanicals. Lavender and sage round the edges slightly, but this is unmistakably a masculine declaration, austere and unapologetic.
The leather emerges as the dominant personality, a rich, slightly smoky leather accord that feels almost animalic, whilst clove and rose attempt a genteel presence that gets systematically overwhelmed. Patchouli and vetiver anchor everything into earthy, slightly dusty territory, and frankincense introduces an almost incense-like whisper—the spice accord (100%) remains prominent, creating a slightly peppery, warm hum beneath the leather's austere character.
Sandalwood and labdanum create a creamy, almost balsamic foundation, with musk providing a soft, skin-like warmth that grows increasingly abstract as the fragrance fades into near-invisibility. What remains is merely a suggestion—a ghost of leather and spice hovering just above the skin, almost apologetic in its quietude, before disappearing entirely within the hour.
Pour Homme Van Cleef & Arpels arrives as a distinctly masculine interpretation of the maison's jewelled aesthetic—all sharp facets and burnished depth. Louis Monnet has constructed something unexpectedly austere for 1978, eschewing the era's typical sweetness in favour of a spiced leather study that feels almost archival in its restraint.
The opening is a bracing slap of myrtle and bergamot, immediately undercut by juniper's piney severity and nutmeg's peppery bite. This isn't a gentle aromatic; it's a fragrance that announces itself with the confidence of a man adjusting cufflinks before entering the boardroom. But what distinguishes this composition is how quickly it pivots toward leather and chypre, those heart notes of rose, clove, and artemisia creating a peculiar tension—floral elements that seem almost reluctant, constrained by the dominant leather accord that comprises nearly 90% of the scent's DNA.
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4.0/5 (150)