Van Cleef & Arpels
Van Cleef & Arpels
268 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The aldehydes burst forth with a crystalline snap, immediately followed by a bright, almost tart blackcurrant that cuts through with unexpected sharpness. Peach and bergamot arrive in quick succession, creating a fruited shimmer that feels more nuanced than typical citral openings—there's complexity here, a slight spiciness lurking beneath the brightness.
The florals gradually submerge the fruit, with narcissus and hyacinth introducing a cool, slightly soapy powderiness that transforms the composition entirely. Tuberose emerges as a delicate thread rather than a creamy bloom, whilst orris root adds a subtle, almost woody dryness that prevents the floral core from becoming suffocating. The civet begins its patient emergence, lending a whisper of animalic warmth.
Sandalwood and tonka bean become the primary conversation partners, creating a soft, honeyed base that clings to skin rather than radiates outward. The powdery elements remain present but muted, the fragrance settling into a nearly imperceptible second-skin scent where only those close enough will detect the fading animalic warmth and gentle vanilla undertones.
First Van Cleef & Arpels arrives as a luminous contradiction—a fragrance that whispers rather than announces, yet somehow feels impossibly full. Ellena's architectural hand is evident in how the aldehydes don't screech here; instead, they function as a crystalline scaffolding that lets the fruit notes shimmer without clawing for attention. There's a peculiar elegance in blackcurrant and peach arriving together, the former's cool tartness keeping the latter from sliding into gourmand sweetness. The bergamot and mandarin provide brightness without harshness, positioning this as a sophisticated citral interlude rather than a jolly morning splash.
What distinguishes this fragrance is its floral core—a deliberate, almost architectural arrangement rather than a natural bouquet. The narcissus and hyacinth bring a cool, slightly metallic minerality that prevents the composition from becoming a perfumed garden cliché. Tuberose arrives without its typical creamy opacity; instead, it's rendered lean and powdery, duetting with the earthy orris root. Turkish rose and ylang-ylang add warmth, but the carnation and lily of the valley maintain restraint, creating a powdery, slightly spicy counterpoint that feels distinctly 1970s—refined rather than romantic.
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