Valentino
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The peach explodes with bright vitality, immediately complicated by earthy truffle that smells almost saline. Bergamot zips through, creating an unexpectedly sophisticated citrus-stone-fruit-earth triptych that feels far more experimental than the brand name suggests.
Tuberose and jasmine bloom with powdery density, transforming the composition into something resembling a 1970s floral with a skin-scent quality. Vanilla emerges as soft, almost talc-like rather than gourmand, whilst the truffle recedes into a subtle background whisper that prevents the florals from becoming traditional.
A delicate woody-herbal base of oakmoss and patchouli settles onto skin, with cedar lending a dry, slightly astringent finish. The fragrance becomes increasingly intimate here, almost dissolving into the wearer's natural chemistry rather than remaining as a distinct entity.
Valentina Assoluto arrives as a rather peculiar collision between gourmand indulgence and earthy restraint. The peach opens with a delicate stone-fruit sweetness, but it's immediately intercepted by truffle—that peculiar, fungi-tinged earthiness that prevents this from becoming another generic fruity floral. It's as though someone's decided to pair a dessert with something distinctly savoury, and the bergamot acts as an uncertain mediator between the two camps.
The heart reveals Cresp's true intention: a tuberose and jasmine duet underpinned by vanilla that reads as distinctly powdery rather than creamy. There's an almost antique quality here, reminiscent of vintage skincare or the inside of a grandmother's dressing table—that distinctive aldehydic whisper combined with the floral heaviness creates something simultaneously comforting and slightly mysterious. The powdery accord dominates the middle passage, softening what could have been an overly indolic tuberose into something more restrained, almost feminine in a decidedly old-fashioned way.
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3.1/5 (84)