Ted Lapidus
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The burst is deceptively vibrant—bright mandarin and apricot leap forward with a zesty, almost jammy character, immediately softened by the tagetes' subtle green-peppery undertone. Within moments, the powder accord settles over everything like dust on old books, transforming the initial citrus-stone fruit brightness into something already nostalgic.
As the opening's sharpness dissolves, the heliotrope emerges as the fragrance's emotional core, its creamy almond-vanilla character anchoring the saffron's gentle spice. The orange blossom joins, adding pale floral sweetness without the typical wedding-cake heaviness—instead suggesting dried petals and honeyed tea. This phase holds the most intrigue, where fruity sweetness and spiced florality achieve fleeting balance.
The composition settles into a soft, almost skinlike dryness where tonka and benzoin dominate, creating a peachy-amber haze that clings rather than projects. What remains is intimate and largely powdery, reminiscent of vintage talc with honeyed undertones—present only within inches of the skin, fading into warm, sweetened air.
WhiteSoul arrives as a peculiar contradiction—a fragrance that promises depth but whispers rather than declares. The composition sits at an intriguing intersection between gourmand warmth and wispy florality, never quite committing to either camp with conviction. What emerges is something resolutely soft-focus: the apricot and mirabelle plum open with a honeyed, almost compote-like sweetness, their stone fruit flesh rendered powdery by the heliotrope's almond-tinged bloom. The saffron introduces a subtle spiced thread without sharpening the composition—instead, it threads through the orange blossom like a whispered accent rather than a bold statement.
The base reveals the fragrance's true character: a tonka-and-benzoin coalition that reads more like talcum-dusted skin than indulgent gourmand excess. This is comfort fragrance for the minimalist, the kind of scent that wraps around you like an oversized linen shirt rather than enveloping you in opulence. The labdanum provides a soft amber glow, but it never suggests richness—instead, a gentle warmth, almost like remembering a pleasant afternoon rather than living it.
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3.5/5 (153)