Sylvaine Delacourte
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bergamot and grapefruit burst with almost aggressive clarity, backed by that green, piney rosemary that smells like fresh herbal medicine. It's a zesty, astringent greeting that catches you slightly off-guard with its briskness—no soft introduction here, just immediate citric punch.
The immortelle blooms into something distinctly papery and honeyed, now tempered by warm cinnamon and dusted through with powdery benzoin that softens the florals into a spiced, almost confectionery sweetness. Frankincense emerges quietly, lending an almost liturgical gravitas to what could otherwise be merely a sweet floral.
The composition becomes increasingly powdery and skin-scent soft, the musk and patchouli settling into a warm, slightly dusty base that clings gently rather than projects. What lingers is more impression than presence—a faint memory of spiced flowers and incense smoke, intimate and fading.
Helicriss unfolds as a peculiar marriage of herbaceous vigour and gourmand comfort—a fragrance that refuses to whisper politely. The immortelle at its heart is the dominating presence, that dried-flower sweetness rendered almost savoury by cinnamon's peppery snap, creating something akin to honeyed spice dusted over autumn leaves. This isn't the soft immortelle of conventional florals; it's been sharpened and mineralised by a rosemary and bergamot opening that feels almost medicinal in its clarity, as though you've crushed fresh herbs between your palms.
What makes Helicriss genuinely intriguing is its refusal to settle into one aesthetic. The green, citric opening promises freshness, but beneath runs a current of talcum-soft powder—that benzoin and tonka bean accord working overtime to powder the entire composition, softening its rougher edges without ever quite sweetening it into comfort-scent territory. There's frankincense too, adding a whisper of church-like solemnity, a drift of incense smoke threading through the spiced florals.
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4.0/5 (104)