Roberto Ugolini
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The first spray delivers a sharp intake of saffron-laced smoke, medicinal and metallic, immediately softened by bergamot's effervescent citrus and angelica's green, earthy bite. It's an arresting combination—simultaneously bright and dark, like watching incense curl through shafts of morning light. The smoke never overwhelms; instead, it creates a gauzy veil through which the other notes flicker.
Damask rose unfurls with syrupy, almost honeyed intensity, its petals seemingly dipped in ylang ylang's buttery richness and dusted with black pepper's prickling heat. The floral accord is voluptuous but never saccharine, kept in check by that persistent smoke that now reads more like aged wood than actual combustion. There's a tactile quality here, almost waxy, as if you've crushed petals between your fingers and the oils have stained your skin.
What remains is a gorgeous amber-vanilla haze, caramel sweetness tempered by gaiac wood's austere, slightly medicinal smokiness and ambergris's saline warmth. The musk creates an intimate, skin-like quality that draws everything inward rather than projecting outward. It's comforting without being soporific, sweet without cloying—a soft whisper of smoke and sugar that lingers for hours.
Rosso reads like a love letter written in smoke and stained with rose petals—Maurizio Cerizza has crafted something that hovers between baroque opulence and contemporary restraint. The opening is a controlled burn: saffron smoulders against bergamot's bright citrus oils whilst smoke weaves through everything, not acrid or campfire-esque, but rather like silk charring at its edges. Angelica adds a green, almost resinous bite that keeps the sweetness from collapsing into banality. As the composition unfolds, damask rose emerges with full-throated intensity, its honeyed, slightly spiced character amplified by ylang ylang's creamy floralcy and black pepper's crackling heat. This isn't a polite rose—it's unapologetically rich, verging on jammy, yet the persistent smoke accord acts as ballast, preventing any descent into cloying territory.
The base is where Rosso reveals its true character: caramel mingles with bourbon vanilla to create a golden sweetness that's tempered by gaiac wood's medicinal, slightly smoky resinousness. Ambergris adds mineral salinity and skin-like warmth, whilst musk provides soft, nebulous depth. The result is a fragrance that oscillates between sweetness and smoke, floral opulence and woody restraint. It's for those who appreciate complexity without chaos, who understand that true luxury lies in balance rather than volume. Wear this when you want to occupy space without announcing yourself—it's intimate yet commanding, perfect for cool evenings when the air itself feels weighted with possibility.
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3.9/5 (238)