Pierre Guillaume
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bright citrus zest cuts through immediately—lemon's sharpness paired with orange blossom's creamy-powdery edge creates an almost cologne-like freshness that seems at odds with the fragrance's darker intentions. Within minutes, however, you sense something amber lurking beneath, a whisper of what's to come.
The coconut emerges as a creamy, almost gourmand sweetness that softens the leather's entrance. Here, the composition finds its balance: leather rises steadily whilst myrrh's smoky, incense-like facets weave through, creating a warm, slightly resinous bed. The spice becomes noticeable—a subtle peppery warmth that elevates the composition beyond simple sweetness.
The citrus and coconut fade considerably, leaving a predominantly leather-and-myrrh foundation held together by that persistent musk. The fragrance becomes increasingly animalic and smoky, settling into a skin scent that feels introspective and almost meditative, though its projection weakens noticeably.
Cuir Venenum presents itself as a deliberate contradiction—a fragrance that pairs the brightness of citrus and white flowers with the darkest facets of leather and animalic musk. The opening marriage of lemon and orange blossom suggests something almost innocent, a solar composition that might drift towards the cheerful, but Pierre Guillaume quickly subverts this expectation. The coconut in the heart doesn't read as tropical or creamy; instead, it acts as a sweetening agent that renders the leather more prominent, more insistent. This is where the genius lies: coconut's inherent creaminess provides enough of a sugar-spun veil that the leather base—paired with myrrh's resinous, almost medicinal smoke—becomes wearable rather than austere.
The spicy and smoky accords (sitting at 76% and 64% respectively) create an almost incense-like quality, transforming what could have been a straightforward leather fragrance into something with spiritual undertones. There's a burnt quality here, as though leather has been singeing over myrrh smoke, with musk adding an animalic intensity that feels distinctly lived-in.
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3.7/5 (93)