Phaedon
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Sticky date sweetness arrives first, almost jammy, quickly shadowed by tonka's creamy warmth. Within moments, that mineral loam note emerges beneath the sweetness like bedrock showing through snow—earthy, cool, vaguely peppery.
The spice settles into a gentle hum whilst loam becomes increasingly prominent, creating a leathery-earthy bed with haunting depth. Cashmeran joins as a barely-there softness, preventing the composition from becoming austere whilst respecting the earth's primacy.
Cedar and sandalwood materialise gradually, their woody dryness complementing rather than replacing the loam. The fragrance retreats to skin level, becoming increasingly intimate—a warm, earthy whisper with lingering tonka sweetness barely perceptible beneath the wood and mineral notes.
Dzhari arrives as a peculiar collision between confectionery warmth and soil-fresh earthiness—the olfactory equivalent of finding honeyed dates scattered across freshly turned garden beds. Pierre Guillaume has crafted something that refuses easy categorisation, which is precisely its appeal. The tonka bean doesn't settle into vanilla sweetness here; instead, it mingles with a distinctly mineral loam accord that grounds the fragrance with an almost geological precision. You're not smelling baked goods—you're smelling the dark earth beneath an orchard after rain, with hints of caramelised fruit clinging to weathered soil.
The spice (100% accord strength) threads through everything without announcing itself loudly; it's more the peppery warmth one finds in weathered cedar than aggressive black pepper. As the composition develops, cashmeran enters from below like a subtle cashmere blanket draped over dark wood, softening but never prettifying the earthy core. This is a fragrance for those drawn to soliflore-adjacent compositions—it orbits around loam as its gravitational centre whilst allowing supporting players to suggest rather than dominate.
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3.8/5 (281)