Penhaligon's
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Bitter orange blossom and violet leaf snap into focus with a crisp, slightly green quality—more tea leaf than florality at first—whilst the cream note immediately softens the edges, creating a creamy citrus effect reminiscent of candied orange peel wrapped in silk. There's an almost savoury quality here that catches you off-guard; this doesn't feel like a traditional floral opening.
By the second hour, the jasmine sambac absolute and frangipani have blossomed into something creamier and more recognisably sweet, though the frangipani's tropical coconut undertones prevent it from reading as a straightforward white floral. The orange blossom absolute brings roundness and a subtle honey-like warmth, whilst the powdery accord begins emerging—this is where Equinox Bloom reveals its true nature as something between a skincare scent and a pastry box, intimate rather than commanding.
The benzoin siam absolute forms a soft, almost tender base—neither rich nor heavy—whilst the brown sugar creates a biscuity sweetness rather than anything caramel-forward. The ambrox introduces a subtle soapiness that paradoxically makes the fragrance feel closer to skin, dispersed and powdery, fading into a lingering sweetness that's more about impression than projection—a whisper rather than a declaration.
Equinox Bloom occupies an intriguing middle ground between floral elegance and gourmand comfort—a fragrance that refuses to commit entirely to either camp, which is precisely its charm. Olivier Cresp has constructed something deliberately ambiguous: the bitter orange blossom and violet leaf absolute in the opening create a slightly tart, green-tinged florality that feels almost herbal, yet the cream note softens this with a subtle, milky warmth that suggests pastry rather than skincare.
Where this becomes genuinely interesting is in how the jasmine sambac absolute and frangipani heart refuses the heady, intoxicating path so many florals take. Instead, there's a creamy, almost coconut-tinged sweetness from the frangipani that makes you question whether you're smelling a white floral or the ghost of a tropical dessert. The orange blossom absolute adds a slightly bitter counterpoint—preventing the whole affair from collapsing into pure sweetness.
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Spezierie Palazzo Vecchio / I Profumi di Firenze
3.9/5 (75)