Parfums de Marly
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Violet leaf's green, slightly peppery bite emerges first, crisp as freshly snapped stems, before jasmine blooms in behind it with creamy indolence. Within moments, the leather appears—not subtle, not apologetic—transforming the floral opening into something distinctly herbal and skin-close, as if you've just pulled on a jacket that's absorbed decades of wear.
The composition settles into its true character as heliotrope unspools its spiced, almost gourmand warmth against the leather's persistent grip. Oud begins its slow emergence from beneath, adding resinous depth that makes the middle phases feel weightier, more grounded, transforming what could have been a simple floral-leather into something with genuine architectural presence and quiet complexity.
The base layers—oud, tonka, and amber—create a creamy, resinous veil that hangs close to the skin rather than projecting outward. What remains is a soft, amber-tinged woody scent with traces of heliotrope's spiced sweetness, intimate and contemplative, like the ghost of leather and jasmine lingering on fabric long after they've faded.
Kuhuyan arrives as a deliberate contradiction—a fragrance that marries the verdant snap of violet leaf with the creamy opacity of jasmine, then immediately subverts your expectations by dragging both into a leather-bound study where oud smoulders in the corners. This is not a romantic composition. Alexandra Kosinski has crafted something far more intriguing: a scent with the architectural precision of a tailored coat and the underlying restlessness of someone who refuses to be easily categorised.
The leather accord sits at Kuhuyan's core like a well-worn saddle, substantial and slightly animalic, refusing the floral notes any real dominion. The heliotrope—which could have softened this into something conventionally pleasant—instead adds a peculiar spiced warmth, almost almond-like, that makes the leather feel more tactile, more intimate. This is skin scent territory; the kind of fragrance that smells different on everyone because it's fundamentally about proximity and body chemistry rather than projection.
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3.8/5 (172)