Perle Rare Ambre Carthage L'Ambre de Carthage

The first spray delivers a striking contrast between birch wood's tarry, almost burnt leather quality and the pale green delicacy of jasmine tea, with bergamot providing just enough brightness to prevent the opening from turning morose. It's an unusual introduction—simultaneously austere and aromatic, like walking into a traditional tearoom that's been built from salvaged ship timbers.

As the composition settles, osmanthus emerges with its characteristic apricot-suede softness, tempering the opening's severity whilst Indonesian patchouli adds earthy, slightly fermented depth. The cistus absolute blooms into its full resinous glory here, creating an amber accord that's more about spiced wood and balsamic resins than vanilla or tonka, with sandalwood providing a creamy, almost milky undertone that civilises the more feral elements.

What remains is a quietly powerful skin scent where frankincense's lemony-pine smoke intertwines with musk and the last traces of sandalwood, creating a clean but complex finish. The amber has mellowed into warmth rather than sweetness, and there's still a ghostly presence of patchouli's dark earth keeping everything from becoming too ethereal or overtly spiritual.