Paco Rabanne
Paco Rabanne
295 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The Russian coriander rushes forward with saccharine intensity, immediately joined by a sharp mint that feels almost medicinal—a fresh-spice collision that's neither quite herbal nor quite sweet, executed with admirable boldness if questionable restraint. The opening declares itself loudly and without apology, synthetic facets gleaming like polished chrome.
Black pepper materialises with genuine presence, warming the sweeter coriander into something almost comforting, whilst ambergris attempts to add depth and skin-scent intimacy. The fragrance settles into its most balanced phase here, where spice and sweetness negotiate an uneasy détente, the powdery accords (52%) lending a slightly soapy, almost talcum-like softness that prevents it from becoming aggressively peppery.
Crystallised moss and patchouli emerge as a barely-there whisper—more conceptual than olfactory—as the fragrance rapidly loses projection and becomes a barely-detectible second-skin scent. What remains is predominantly that synthetic amber-sweetness, bloodless and fleeting, disappearing within hours rather than lingering into the evening.
Ultraviolet Man arrives as a peculiar beast—synthetic sweetness colliding with bracing herbal bite in a way that suggests Paco Rabanne wasn't entirely sure whether to craft a fragrance or an experiment. The Russian coriander dominates the initial sweetness, lending an almost candied quality that fights against the Italian mint's sharp medicinal sting. It's rather like biting into a lozenge made of honey and crushed herbs, an uncomfortable marriage of sensations that somehow works through sheer audacity.
The heart reveals the true character: ambergris attempting to lend sophistication whilst black pepper introduces a genuinely peppery warmth that's neither particularly elegant nor particularly offensive. This is where the fragrance becomes intriguing—the spice (76% accord presence) refuses to play the supporting role one might expect, instead wrestling with the sweetness for dominance. The ambergris, likely heavily synthetic given the fragrance's 88% synthetic accord rating, smells less animalic and more like clean, slightly soapy warmth.
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3.9/5 (84)