Paco Rabanne
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The blood orange strikes immediately with bright, almost sour intensity, its synthetic nature unmistakable—this citrus has been processed rather than squeezed. The sharpness cuts through the air with an almost jarring quality, leaving a faint chemical trace on the skin that some will find refreshing, others slightly off-putting.
As the citrus fades, praline and tonka bean emerge with considerable presence, the composition pivoting sharply towards sweetness. A roasted, caramelised warmth settles into the skin, creating an almost creamy middle that's gourmand without being truly dense—think burnt sugar and soft almond paste rather than full dessert indulgence.
Patchouli becomes more prominent as the sweetness retreats, introducing earthy, slightly bitter notes that anchor the composition. The vanilla softens the base into a skin scent territory, lingering as a faint powdery sweetness rather than a pronounced presence—the longevity here is modest, making this more of a fleeting companion than a lasting statement.
Ultrared Man announces itself as a deliberately synthetic confection, one that wears its artificiality as a badge rather than an apology. Daphné Bugey has crafted something that sits uncomfortably between gourmand comfort and citrus vitality—a fragrance that refuses to settle into either camp. The blood orange arrives with a slightly plasticky sheen, as if squeezed through a chemical filter rather than plucked from an orchard. It's here that the fragrance's character becomes apparent: this is not a naturalistic scent.
What saves Ultrared Man from becoming merely cloying is the tension between that synthetic citrus and the praline-tonka heart notes that follow. The praline brings a roasted, almost nutty sweetness—like burnt sugar clinging to caramel—whilst tonka bean deepens the composition into something almost creamy. Together they create a gourmand core that's more intellectually interesting than immediately comforting. There's a slight powderiness here, the sort of texture that suggests vanilla before the base notes have truly opened.
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3.5/5 (175)