Oriza L. Legrand
Oriza L. Legrand
75 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Violet leaf surges with immediate green intensity—crisp, almost green-tea-like, with hooded violet adding a darker, more mysterious shadow beneath. The opening is surprisingly herbaceous and bright, nothing soft about it.
As the green edges soften slightly, the French violet emerges with greater roundness whilst Florentine iris introduces a subtle almond-cream quality that conflicts beautifully with the lingering green sharpness. Heliotrope adds a whisper of vanilla powder without ever making this saccharine, keeping everything in elegant tension.
Russian leather moves forward with quiet authority, its tobacco-leather warmth now the fragrance's true protagonist. Gaiac wood and tolu balm create a resinous, slightly woody amber-tinged base where violet becomes merely a memory—a powdery ghost haunting increasingly leather-forward skin scent that lasts close to the epidermis.
Violettes du Czar arrives not as a delicate floral whisper but as a crushed velvet glove concealing something unexpectedly austere. The violet here is assertively green—that sharp, almost metallic quality of violet leaf dominates the composition's character, preventing the fragrance from ever tip-toeing into powdery sentimentality. Instead, it channels a distinctly aristocratic restraint, as though examining a collection of imperial violets through museum glass rather than burying oneself in their fragrance.
The Florentine iris and heliotrope in the heart offer a brief softening, introducing an almond-tinged creaminess that plays against the green violet's edge, but they're never allowed dominance. This is where the composition reveals its intellectual rigour: rather than dissolving into typical iris-violet sweetness, the notes seem to sharpen one another, creating an almost herbal tension. The French violet adds depth without lushness, sitting somewhere between botanical extraction and refined restraint.
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3.7/5 (74)