Olfactive Studio
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
The first spray delivers a bracing hit of ginger and saffron that borders on peppery, with bergamot providing just enough citric brightness to keep things from turning heavy. Clary sage adds a herbaceous, almost medicinal edge that hints at the complexity to come.
Frankincense takes centre stage, wreathing the wearer in cathedral smoke whilst black tea's dry tannins prevent any cloying sweetness. The sequoia and spikenard create an earthy, resinous foundation—think forest floor after rain, damp bark, and crushed roots.
What remains is a quiet communion of cocoa-dusted patchouli and smooth leather, with styrax adding dark, balsamic tendrils. The smokiness never fully dissipates, lingering like incense caught in wool fibres, intimate and skin-close.
Bertrand Duchaufour's Woody Mood is a study in contrasts—austere yet sensual, meditative yet worldly. The opening announces itself with a sharp ginger bite tempered by saffron's leathery warmth, whilst bergamot and clary sage provide an aromatic lift that prevents the composition from turning too introspective. What distinguishes this from typical woody orientals is the deft interplay between frankincense's cathedral-like smokiness and the tannins of black tea, creating a dry, cerebral quality that reads almost monastic. The sequoia note—unusual and beautifully rendered—adds a resinous, sun-warmed bark quality that grounds the more ethereal incense elements.
As the fragrance settles, the spikenard introduces an earthy, almost medicinal facet that some will find challenging but which gives Woody Mood its distinctive character. The patchouli here isn't the sweet headshop variety but rather the dry, woody iteration that meshes seamlessly with leather and styrax, the latter adding a dark, balsamic richness without cloying sweetness. The cocoa remains subtle, more an impression of bitter cacao nibs than anything gourmand.
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3.6/5 (183)