Odin New York
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
A brilliant, almost sharp burst of Japanese mandarin and grapefruit leaf collides with herbal bergamot, creating an effect like biting into candied citrus peel with its accompanying bitter white pith. The citrus dominates completely here, assertive and bright, with that green, slightly bitter grapefruit leaf preventing any approach towards sweetness or gourmandise.
Amyris weaves through the lingering citrus, adding a creamy woody undertone whilst cubeb's peppery, slightly dusty spice begins to assert itself quietly. Neroli surfaces but feels integrated rather than distinct, adding a soft floral whisper that never blooms into sweetness but rather dissolves into the increasingly warm, slightly spiced base notes.
The composition settles into a dry, woody foundation where cedarwood's pencil-shaving character dominates, supported by a gentle amber sweetness and tonkin musk's subtle second-skin quality. What remains is considerably warmer and more enveloping than the austere opening, though never soft—it retains a refined, slightly austere character throughout its final hours.
Owari announces itself as a fragrance of restless sophistication—a scent that refuses to settle into comfortable territory. The Japanese mandarin orange and grapefruit leaf establish an immediately bright, almost herbal citrus axis, one that feels considerably drier than your typical citrus composition thanks to the assertive grapefruit leaf's green, slightly bitter edge. What makes Owari compelling is how it resists the temptation to lean into sweetness; instead, bergamot arrives to amplify the sharpness, creating an opening that feels almost tea-like in its mineral brightness.
As the composition develops, the heart reveals its true character: amyris brings a creamy, almost woody warmth that grounds the effervescent top notes, whilst cubeb introduces a peppery, slightly camphoraceous quality—reminiscent of aged pepper rather than fresh spice. The neroli that follows feels almost ghostly, dissolving into the amyris-cubeb foundation rather than blooming separately. This is where Owari's 76% spicy accord becomes apparent; it's not aggressive or peppery-hot, but rather a persistent, slightly metallic spiciness that prevents the composition from becoming lush or comforting.
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3.6/5 (89)