Nina Ricci
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Mandarin brightness cuts through immediately, slightly tart and almost green, carrying with it sweet pea's gentle powder in a combination that's almost edible. The opening is crisp, almost cologne-like in its freshness, with the fruity top notes dominating completely—nothing woody or musky yet.
As the citrus retreats, gardenia emerges with creamy, slightly narcotic warmth whilst orchid adds ethereal precision, creating a cool-warm tension that's genuinely compelling. The sweetness builds here, not from added vanilla but from the flowers themselves, creating an almost luminous quality against the woody undertones beginning to surface.
Sandalwood becomes the dominant voice, warm and slightly dusty, accompanied by a soft, almost skin-like musk that blurs the line between fragrance and skin chemistry. The floral heart fades to abstraction—less flowers, more the memory of flowers—leaving behind a tender, woody-sweet base that feels intimate rather than diffusive.
Premier Jour opens a window onto something deliberately gentle—a fragrance that refuses to shout. Sophie Labbé has crafted something that feels more like a whispered confidence than a declaration, built on the unlikely pairing of sweet pea's powdery delicacy with mandarin's bright citrus snap. It's this friction between fruity brightness and floralsoft density that gives the composition its peculiar charm.
The heart reveals gardenia and orchid working in surprisingly different registers. Gardenia brings creamy, almost soapy richness—that indolic whisper that separates sophisticated florals from their pedestrian cousins—whilst orchid adds an airy, slightly cool precision that prevents the composition from becoming saccharine. Between them sits a subtle sweetness that never tips into gourmand territory; it's more the natural honey-like warmth of flowers themselves than added sugar.
Add fragrances to your collection and unlock your personalised scent DNA, note map, and shareable identity card.
3.6/5 (83)