Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
Nicolaï / Parfums de Nicolaï
498 votes
A unique visual signature based on accords, character, and seasonality
Lemon petitgrain leads with its characteristic bitter-green bite, bergamot adding brightness whilst mugwort introduces an almost absinthe-like herbal roughness. Thyme weaves through with savoury intensity, creating an opening that feels bracing rather than refreshing—more architectural than natural.
The aromatic herbs recede as clove and cinnamon take centre stage, their sweetness kept in check by black pepper's sharp edges and chamomile's subtle apple nuances. Lavender emerges as the mediator here, its fougère heritage evident, whilst the spices create an almost suede-like texture against the skin.
Oakmoss provides that essential grey-green foundation whilst styrax and frankincense weave resinous, smoky tendrils through the base. The tonka-vanilla-patchouli triumvirate settles into a warm, woody-musky skin scent that's quietly persistent—intimate rather than projecting, with just enough sweetness to keep it human.
New York Intense reads like Patricia de Nicolaï's love letter to the classic American fougère, filtered through a Parisian sensibility that favours complexity over machismo. The opening salvo of lemon petitgrain and bergamot arrives with that precise, green-edged sharpness that only petitgrain can deliver—less sunshine than the glint of light on glass and steel. But this isn't a polite citrus cologne. Within moments, mugwort's bitter, almost medicinal facets tangle with thyme, creating an aromatic turbulence that feels decidedly urban rather than pastoral.
The spice accord dominates the composition's architecture: clove and cinnamon don't simply add warmth, they create an almost leathery dryness, whilst black pepper crackles through the lavender like static electricity. There's chamomile hiding in there too, its apple-like sweetness tempering what could otherwise veer aggressive. This is a fragrance that understands restraint—the oakmoss isn't wallowing in vintage excess, but it's present enough to anchor the whole structure with that inimitable grey-green earthiness.
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